Tambunan: Exploring Sabah’s Hidden Bamboo Valley
Tambunan is often called the “Switzerland of the East,” and while it may lack the Alps, it more than makes up for it with emerald rice terraces, cool mountain breezes, and a soul that is purely Sabahan.
Tucked away in the interior of Sabah, about an 80-kilometer drive from Kota Kinabalu, lies Tambunan. This isn’t your typical tourist trap. It’s a place of mist-covered hills, the world’s largest flowers, and a weekly market that beats as the heart of the community.
One thing I realize is if you haven’t truly visited Tambunan until you’ve walked through its Tamu (traditional open-air market). Usually the main market day is Thursday, though some activity begins on Wednesday evenings. There is also a market on Sunday which is in Toboh, in front of Paroki Holy Cross Catholic Church. This is where the interior’s “superfoods” live. Look for Tuhau (wild ginger) and Bambangan (wild pickled mango)—the two cornerstones of Dusun cuisine. You’ll see local farmers selling everything from handmade Wakid (bamboo baskets) to Lihing (traditional rice wine). It’s a sensory overload of earthy smells, bright tropical fruits, and the melodic cadence of the Dusun language.
The surrounding nature of Tambunan serves as the gateway to some of Borneo’s most pristine environments. – Which I plan to explore in my next visit!
- Mahua Waterfall: Located about 26km from the town center, this 17-meter waterfall is framed by lush greenery. The water is ice-cold and incredibly refreshing—perfect for a post-hike dip.
- The Rafflesia Reserve: Tambunan is one of the best places to spot the Rafflesia pricei. Check with the Rafflesia Information Centre (RIC) before you head up; these giant blooms only last for a few days, so timing is everything.
- Mount Trusmadi: For the serious adventurers, Tambunan is the starting point for scaling Malaysia’s second-highest peak. It’s a tougher, more rugged climb than Mount Kinabalu, offering a raw experience for seasoned hikers.
- The Best View: Sinurambi Point: For the “money shot,” head to Sinurambi (Tambunan Viewing Point). The observation tower is shaped like a giant Wakid basket. On a clear morning, the view of the valley—with its patchwork of paddy fields and the Crocker Range in the background—is nothing short of cinematic.
Keep an eye out for the Sompoton Roundabout in the center of town. The Sompoton is a traditional bamboo musical instrument, and this landmark celebrates Tambunan’s identity as the “Bamboo Valley.” You should also visit the Mat Salleh Memorial, which marks the site of the fort where the legendary Sabahan warrior stood against British colonial rule.
Traveler’s Tips:
- Transport: The drive from Kota Kinabalu takes about 1.5 to 2 hours via the Kimanis-Papar road or the Tambunan-Penampang road. Both offer stunning views but be prepared for steep inclines and sharp curves!
- Moving Around: Advisable to actually rent a car, or a motorcycle, as there are no Grab in Tambunan. Also it makes it easier for you to travel to another district such as Keningau, Ranau, Kundasang or even Mount Kinabalu Park.
- Weather: It’s significantly cooler here than on the coast. Bring a light jacket, especially if you plan on staying overnight in a homestay.
- Currency: If you’re a traveller from outside Malaysia, do convert to Malaysian Ringgit in the city such as Kota Kinabalu. Or else, most places can accept QR codes for online payments.
